rootzbiketour


RISHIKESH AND THE NORTH
05/05/2011, 11:59
Filed under: India

TRAIN POUR DELHI

A Margao, les touristes, ils connaissent bien. Très bien même…

La même histoire se répète chaque fois qu’on doit prendre le train : il faut qu’on aille au service des colis pour faire enregistrer nos vélos pour les mettre dans le wagon bagages. Mais cette fois ils nous demandent des sous en plus : “c’est parce que votre train arrivera au quai numéro 3, alors les porteurs prennent une petite surcharge”. Bon. Ok, pourquoi pas. On se pose sur le quai n°1 avec nos énormes sacs de 20kg au moins chacun. Sur ce un autre porteur de la gare arrive et nous demande si on voudrait pas qu’il nous prennent nos gros sacs jusqu’au quai n°3… Comment sait-il qu’on prend le train pour Dehli et qu’il arrive au quai n°3?? Car même au guichet d’informations, ils ne pouvaient le savoir que 20minutes avant l’arrivée du train! Donc on refuse d’abord, mais il insiste et Murat finit par dire oui… Et nous voila partis à marcher tout au bout du quai, traverser les voies, et il nous descend tous nos gros sacs sur le quai. Sauf que, 20minutes avant notre train, on entend par le haut parleur annoncer qu’il va bien arriver, mais au quai n°1! Super! Donc on l’a un peu mauvaise quand même, pas tant pour les sous que pour le fait qu’on se retrouve à tout re-porter sur l’autre quai, car le porteur s’est bien sûr fait la malle! On finit par le retrouver 10minutes avant que le train parte, et Murat tente sans grande conviction de récupérer nos sous, ou tout de moins de lui montrer qu’on est pas dupes et qu’on a bien compris son manège…

Experts en touristes, ces porteurs!

TRANSIT À DELHI ET ARRIVÉE A RISHIKESH

Nos vélos sont donc bien montés dans le même train que nous (apparemment dès fois il arrive que ça parte dans le train d’après!) mais à l’arrivée, le vélo d’Amélie a un peu souffert : le porte bagages, déjà cassé et ressoudé en Mongolie, a encore lâché! Réparation éclair aux câbles plastiques et gros scotch, ça tiendra bien jusqu’à la station de bus qui se trouve à quelques kilomètres. La gare de routière de Delhi est inimaginable! On dirait qu’une  bombe a explosé là-dedans : il y a des pierres et des trous de partout, pas de trottoir entre les bus et le quai, pas d’allées, des petites huttes qui font office de guichets, et bien sûr il y a un monde fou! Après quelques instants de perdition totale on trouve notre chemin en le demandant toutes les 4 secondes car on est jamais trop sûrs de là où on va… Notre bus pour Rishikesh stationne un peu plus loin, et il va bientôt partir! On grimpe comme d’hab’ sur le toit pour y accrocher les vélos et on rentre les derniers dans le bus… On se retrouve tout au fond du bus, entre deux gars d’un age moyen, assis chacun à leurs fenêtres. Celui à côté de Muz lui pose plein de questions sur notre situation financière en Europe et surtout sur notre relation : est-on mariés? non!? Alors il faut lui expliquer qu’en Europe c’est différent etc etc… À côté d’Amélie vient s’assoir un mec qui pourtant était assis un peu plus à l’avant. Elle le sent un peu collant et lui fait comprendre très vite qu’il faut qu’il arrête tout de suite ses tentatives d’avachissements sur elle. Il comprend à peu près mais sort son portable de sa poche et commence à regarder des clips un peu “olé olé”, qui assez vite, passent carrément au porno! Sympa! Il fait mine de le cacher au début mais au bout de quelques minutes tourne carrément le portable vers Amélie afin qu’elle puisse bien voir de quoi il s’agissait. Il devait sûrement se dire qu’à coup sûr ça allait lui plaire, et qu’elle allait descendre avec lui au prochain arrêt pour aller dans l’hôtel le plus proche! C’est malheureusement l’impression que donne les indiens de 30-35 ans : qu’ils se font des gros films sur les occidentales! Amélie demande donc à Muz d’échanger leurs place, que Muz ne cède pas facilement (s’était-il pris d’affection pour le vieux monsieur curieux?). On échange donc de place, au grand désappointement du mec au porno qui range aussi sec son portable.

On arrive à Rishikesh à 3 ou 4h du mat’, et il fait super froid!! Enfin, c’est qu’on avait pris goût à la chaleur du sud.. On essaie de trouver une guesthouse mais tout est fermé, donc on erre dans la petite ville, on en fait le tour dans la nuit, c’est vide et venteux, étrange atmosphère.. On revient donc vers la station de bus où on y trouve les seuls “chai shops” d’ouverts, et on se pose pour boire un chai et manger des bons gâteaux indiens. Plus tard dans la matinée on trouve une guest house : chez Mama, et c’est comme chez Mama, elle nous appelle tous “son” et “daughter” et elle est très connue pour ses délicieux thalis qu’elle sert tous les soirs dans sa petite cour.

On reste quelques jours à Rishikesh, on se balade, on va voir les temples etc.. Puis on décide de monter plus haut dans les montagnes et de s’enfoncer un peu dans l’Himalaya. Alors on prend un bus, c’est 7 heures de trajet qui passe par des paysages magnifiques! Des vues du Gange coulant au milieu des montagnes parfois verdoyantes, parfois rocailleuses, et des sommets enneigés à l’horizon. Notre bus a une crevaison une heure avant d’arriver, alors on s’arrête, ça nous fait une petite pause. Ils réparent la chambre à air… et remettent le même pneu qui a plus d’un gros trou dedans! On arrive quand même à bon port, Uttarkashi, à la nuit tombée, et on se pose dans un hôtel en haut d’une côte.

Le lendemain, ballade dans la montagne. On aperçoit les sommets de l’Himalaya tous enneigés, c’est trop beau! On roule un peu jusqu’au prochain village et on revient sur Uttarkashi. On se ballade dans le marché et Muz essaie de jouer au cricket avec les gamins sur la grande place. On aurait bien voulu aller plus haut dans les montagnes, mais c’était le tout début de la saison, et aucun bus ne montait plus haut, il aurait fallu prendre une jeep, trop chère pour notre budget…

On revient donc sur Rishikesh et on se prépare à redescendre dans le sud, car notre super copine, Pauline, va bientôt arriver!!! Mais il y a d’abord le festival des couleurs : “holi”, grand festival en Inde ou tout le monde se jette des couleurs en répétant “happy holi”! Nos voisins de chambre descendent en ville et reviennent couverts des pieds à la tête! Muz y va ensuite -Amélie est toujours un peu malade, y’en a marre!- et se baigne dans le Gange pour se laver 3 fois d’affilée. On devait être à Udaipur avec Pauline, mais notre bus s’est retrouvé annulé à cause du festival! En Inde, faut vraiment pas être pressé ni avoir d’impératifs…

On reste donc quelques jours de plus et on fait un petit détour par une magnifique cascade dans laquelle on se baigne et on se sent revivre! Muz se rebaptise aussi pour l’occasion : c’est un nouveau Jean-Muz qui voit le jour!

Le lendemain nous enfourchons nos vélos pour un tout petit trajet de 20km pour aller prendre notre bus pour Udaipur dans le Rajasthan, où Pauline nous attend.

TRAIN 2 DEHLI

SO WE  ride down to the station early to check in our bikes at the parcel office.,, parcel office man asks for some pocket cash to transport the bike onto the train: amelie asks why as this is first time they ask for this. he says some crap like “” platform 3 is on the other side of station and have to cross railway 1 km down the line”” ok wat- ever man, save it.     Rootz hand overr the petit cash. as we want our bikes to get on that dam train.   we decide to check out if the train really leaves at Platform 3,, the boss man at the Box office says they dont know and will only know 20 mins B4 train arrives. ok,, so we wait at platform 1 ,, as our bags are pretty heavy  to carry.——————— some porter dude comes up to us and asks if we need a hand to carry our bags to platform 3,, “”how does he know we are goin to Dehli””,, and he know its platform 3  too,, if the boss man dont know. how he know?? RASTA.Bloodcartt!  mr porter man so sweet and gud looking, thin and charming,, after a few laughs muzz says “”ok man carry that shit, i give ya a hand”” so together the skinny indian and skinyish Turk put the bags on theiR headz and walk the 1 Km and head to platform 3.   so, 20 mins B4 train arrives, the bossman announces platform 1 for our train to Skaville. and we stuck on platform 3 wit all our crap, and the porter man has done a runner!!. what a wanker.     we accept we got skanked and carry our crap back to platform 1. on our heads too.  muz hunts down the mr skinny porter,, no sight of him. he probably eating a somasa or two with his magiK 50 ruppees, muz tinks. 5 mins later,we see him and with love and giggles of course the Turk asks him “” yo man, i helpd u carry that crap to platform 3, then we carried it back alone. so that makes 50 plus 50 plus 50 ruppees for money u robbed off us” give me back ma money BeeATach,”” 150 ruppees BROTHA!! “”  he smiles, charmingly and muz cracks up too.. what love. the two hugg each other,, as the porter did a great job to skank us. IMPRESSIVE :  he earned his 50ruppees well. sowell infact that he didnt give it bak, nor did we want it back.  WE GOT SKANKED TWICE!! GUD N HARD. the porter man then tipped off the bike baggage guy for the platform 3 trick!!   funny sShite.

DEHLI TRANSIT

we arrived to the spider web of the vastnass, Dehli. Amelie’s rack is bust from the train ride , so Am puts some zip wires , some chinesse GaffA tape and off we cycle towards the IBS bus station.  we see about an hour or 2 of dehli, as dont wana get stuck there. looks pretty done up in this part of town,, wide roads with traffic lights and lamposts etc: anyways we get to the IBS bus station round dark. its looks pretty horrifiK actually,, like a bomb went off a week ago and theY putting the pieces bak together. we ask around for the bus to RISHIKESH,, we find it and some man hassles us saying we gotta  catch the bus behind. as its his friend’s bus we reckonz. he so persistant N annoyin, we gotta leave man. that we quickly strapp our bikes ontop of the 1st bus, we starving but no time to eat as bus leaving in 2 mins. the bus starts pulling out the station with muz still on the roof top strapping down the 2Nd bike. the peeps yell at the driver and smack the dented steel side of the local bus to get his attention. he stops driving, muz climbs down, and squeezes himself towards the rear of the bus to sit next to amelie. the bus is packed out. the man next to muz´s left offers some sweets and starts the questioning: the usual questions about how much money one makes in the West compared to india, marriage etc: he gets annoying after 1 hour as he really pushes the questions  and cant accept how we can stay in a room together if we not married. Amelie gives muz a gentle  elbow nudge, and muz makes up that we getting married for the sake of argument. the man still cant get his head round it. muz tries to nod off to sleep but sweetman still fires away. on the other side of the back bench. Amelie is sitting next to a wierdo, and next to him, right in the corner is another wierdo sitting in the standard yoga position so that nobody sits next to him.  takes up like half the back row or somethin. so the wierdo on amelies right is compressed onto her. he pulls out his phone and watches some porn. he  slightly tilts his video towards amelie. amelie is not pleased. the porno wierdo actually had a seat in front but he changed places with his friend so he can get squashed up next to amelie. so muz changes places with Amelie. Amelie gets blasted with the marriage religion questions and muz gets some porno. we nodd off,,, its really cold. we get woken up 4 hours later by some shiverring as the plastic window fell off. And we hadnt anticipated the cold. But the good news is that both wierdos have left,, actually only 2 others are on the bus. its round midnight and the bus starts its ascend towards the mountains. the driver drives like a mad man over the speed bumbs, we levitate off our seats , hitting our heads on the roof and the 2nd plastic window falls out.

we arrive like 3 or 4am into Rishi, the same place were the beatles stayed in the ashram and got hippified etc:

we put on all our clothes, some lights and cycle towards some ashram to try n get a place to sleep. recover from the madness.  everywhere is shut,, all lights out. the only people on the streets are the homeless peeps wrapped up fast assleep in their woolen blankets. we contemplate on doing the same. we bumb into a forienger on an acid trip on the suspension bridge, he asks for water. we direct him to the other side of the bridge.                                                          its actually really peacefull and we enjoy cyclin around town at night. we cycle around for bout 2 hours until first place opens. A tea master starts boiling some water and milk to make tea,, we sit in his small room. hand over the 10 ruppes and wait for his splendid warm chai. we are his first customers,, its still dark outside and the homeless guys start getting up. they head here as its the first place to get warmed up. its really nice sitting in silence, wrapped up sipping chai next to some dudes from tha streetz.   round 5 am we head back to the bus station to try N get some breakie,, we eat cookies with chai and wait for sunrise aT some cool cafe place where the geezer wears shades wen cooking on the fire. the rickshaw drivers hang out waiting like fishermen for the morning bus to arrive, and one cool kat blasts out some Hindi tunes from his hipstarr yellow Ricksaw wit kitted out blue neon flashing lights and heavy sound system. the drivers bounce, sipp chai and enjoy their early start to their work.

we bopPse into town at light and head to the hill top, in search of the swiss cottage place. the cottAge is full, however we bumb into our friend Mr colin from the south. we are delighted to see him and likewise he is quite pleased to see us again. we have breaksfast together in the warm bakery/cafe at the cottage. again we are the first customers and we see some crossants appearing form the oven. we chatt away and enjoy the mountain view over Rishi. Colin tells us that next door there is a Mama and she makes the best tahli in the Hood. so we head over to her joint to find a room as its full at the cottage. mama is ACE, she places us in some room in her house next to the living room and charges us only 130 ruppees a nite. pretty cheap man. she makes us massala chai and we meet the crew at her guest house.  that evening, chez Mama is two tables full of peeps munching away at her homemade thali. tasty.  she calls every body ‘son’ or ‘daughther’ and likewise everybody calls her mama. it feels like at home, like back with mummy and she takes care of us and her children.

here in Rishikesh iz the annual Yoga festival. so many flexi people are in town reading bout some guru or wotnot and walking around with yoga mats. we even bumb into Donald again (geezar that fixed up muz wit sulphur for his belly in chennai), he is outside the ashram where all the brazilians hangout . he is there as they give out free food and filtered water. he is the master at  finding the freebees. Actually better than us. impressiFF fella must say.

UTTARKASHI

we decide to take a 150 km trip to Uttarkashi to get deeper into the himalayas. again we take a local bus and strap bikes ontop. a 7 hour climb,, and a absolutely stunning view of the mountains and valley. Half way up the  bus tyre get a puncture,, so they stop off and start fixing itt. the dudes on the bus head over to a hut and get chai and watch the india VS s. africa Cricket match. muz joins them and bites into his crackers crawling wit ants. this fella obviously hasnt had visiters for a while,, so he has chai like the rest of the crew. we arrive late at UttarKashi. we are the only foreingers here ,, its nice to get away from the foreingers a bit.

the next day we find out you need a permit to get to HarSIL 3000m, and plan B, a cycle to some lake is blocked due to some avalanches or something. so instead we cycle up to the next town along the valley and have a pique nique , indian style. see some snow peaks. we pop into the wedding to say hi,, then head back down the hill to sleep at our hotel Everest. we take a walk around town ,, its really nice and in the square everybody is playing cricket,, muz even gets in there and has a little go with the kids. the grown ups are too serious about cricket to let him play.

its coming up to holi, the super major festival of colour:so we head back to Rishikesh, back to Mamas place!  shame tho, as mama is a full house,no space. so we check in next door. they 2 give us a really gud deal. in the evening we eat the famous mama thali again as she hunts us down from next door and sits us down,, like mama hey:  Everyday she catches us. one day we escape and eat in town,, but feel really bad and ashamed. but hey,, we needed a change of diet.

the weekend, we tried to leave Rishi to meet our Dearest Friend paulinette, who had just arrived in Mumbai: however our Bus got cancelled Due to Holi. No train, no buses till another 3/4 days. well all for the best as Holi here in Rishi is the holyist place to B ish. on the day of holi,, after our free holi cake at breakie/  AM stayed in as not feelin so well .AND  muz put on his swim shorts and headed into town with just his swiming shorts on. was AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   !      !!!!!!!! everybody  throwing paint on each other,, water everything. some madness and some love tooo. then later peeps would dive into the Ganga river to wash off the paint. muz dived in 3 times to wash, as each time he came out he got covered in paint again. it was sunny outside, warm actually but once in the water its F#ki### COLD !

After holi,, we cycled to HARIWAR; we arrive earlier than expected and hangout in the town B4 our bus to Udaipur,, where pauline is waiting for us. we chill at the ganges river and watch dudes rock up and wash,, its the hangout. some fellla shaves his head leaving a mynute piggy tail and dives in. a street boy comes by and fishes out ruppees with his magnet attached to a piece of cotton string. he finds one too. quite clever. we get a sleeper bus, meaning a double bed on a bus. we get our own compartment, slide open the plastic window and gaze over at the ruggad lanscape, watch the sunset, get some breeze. its nice being lazy . rajastastan landscape is a bit like the kazak steppe.

in abit

the cool cafe dude,, wears shades for the fire,   Rishikesh.

oops there goes another film,, some more lost shots. trapped in infinate space

this fella jumps on board with his goats


A new muz, after going under water and opening the eyes and listening to the bubbles, he came out new, refreshed and Baptised—now known as Jean Muz . #the perfume#

amelie did the same,,

we got invaded by monkeys,, the dogs loved it and momma went about chasing them with her stick. they stole our nuts and the one pomagrange that we paid 32ruppes for. cheeky monkey

our canadian friends from mommas place,, a day out during Holi

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2 Comments so far
Leave a comment

salut, jaimerais bien savoir ou vous êtes resté exactement a rishikesh, le nom de l´hotel c´est chez mama ? parceque jai pas reussi à le trouver, je compte aller en inde dans quelques mois, merciii

Comment by Benedicte

salut
pardon, oon peut tard mais cetait a swiss cottage. en haut!!! facile a trouverrrrrrrr
vous etes la bas???

muz

Comment by muzzzam




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